February 11th, 2017
My first show of the day was Hakan Akkaya. The all-black collection featured so many textures and shapes, the lack of color was not felt. Shiny, sheer, puffy, ruffled, and furry elements in the show added captivating variety and kept each piece interesting. Unexpected though, was the bizarre mix of, let’s say, levels of exposure. Some models were nearly naked while a few walked out in fashion-forward burqas, nothing but eyes and hands showing. But paired with thigh-high patent boots, even the burqas were sexed up. Overall, the show’s punk vibe came across as what someone who listed to a lot of blink-182 in high school might wear as an adult.
Next, Concept Korea, the annual showcase of rising Korean brands, offered three very different sartorial perspectives. Greedilous by Younhee Park, Kimmy J. by Heejin Kim, and Yohanix by Yohan Kim were featured this year, each presenting co-ed collections.
The first, Greedilous, was like the perfect showcase for the “fashion betch.” Rich tones and luxe fabrics, sunglasses on most models, and mirrored punchy patterns communicated that if you saw one of these models on the street, step out of their way.
When the music changed for Kimmy J., the young audience, especially Shaun Ross, who was sitting across the aisle from me, perked up. Rap blaring, models strutted out in neon green, lilac, and black ensembles that were a cross between street wear, cyber goth, and ski vacation looks. Definitely my favorite of the three.
Finally, Yohanix, while traditionally pretty, was underwhelming after the first two collections. It’s always awkward to sit in a show where the audience is not inspired to lift their phones and capture the clothing but this felt especially uncomfortable after the enthusiasm just minutes before. The clothes were fine, military jacket sleeves were embellished with pleats mid-sleeve and Banksy figures, but nothing about them felt exciting. Maybe I’m reaching but it was also disappointing, and I think reflected in the safe clothing, that every model in this leg of the show was white.
Last of the day was Telfar. I went last season and really enjoyed it so my hopes were high. The brand is unisex, and as it says on their site, “it’s not for you— it’s for everyone.” A deep, computer-manipulated voice narrates the show, commenting on global warming and ethnocentrism and disunity, accented with wit and sarcasm. It’s clear that they’re not taking themselves too serious while addressing really serious stuff. The clothes were not overworked, color blocking and playing with proportion without unnecessary additions. A lot of oversized pieces, hoodies, and no heels or skirts, the emphasis on ease was felt, reflecting not only the growing love for streetwear but a decreasing patience for discomfort.
Written and photographed by Anisa Tavangar.
Follow Hoot on Instagram for more NYFW coverage.